Saturday, July 21, 2012

Learning to Mourn in Paraguay

During my time here in Paraguay I have been to countless rezos. For me it’s not so much a spiritual experience, praying a rosary is not how I choose to connect with my maker, as it is a way to socialize in the community. The majority of these rezos commemorate the 6 month and annual anniversary of loved ones who have passed and to pray for their soul. But going to so many rezos has raised my awareness to the differences of how cultures understand and grieve death. When my host grandmother passed suddenly in May I got a unique inside perspective of the mourning customs that added to my understanding of cultural differences here. While I have been to a few Paraguayan funerals, none were as intimate or dear to me as Ña Elida and because of my relationship to the family I was welcomed into the mourning process as another daughter or granddaughter. But being a foreigner I also naturally express my grief differently and I began to compare and contrast the two cultures as I mourned and observed. I have not had a family member close to me pass during my adult life, so I don’t have a great breadth of experience to compare it to, nor does one death in Paraguay characterize all cultural norms.
Of course in all cultures death and the afterlife are a mystery that we will never fully understand until we experience it. Ña Elida’s life was cut short by an infarto cerebral, or literally a brain attack (instead of a heart attack). In past Paraguayan funerals I am very shaken up by the wailing that occurs, often to the point of fainting, and the suddenness of Ña Elida’s death only intensified the wailing. In the states, while there is sadness and emotion is displayed, what I have observed is often loved ones fighting tears back in public, or quietly weeping. No matter the age or suddenness of death this wailing occurs. When one of her daughters arrived from Argentina and spoke more Spanish I was able to catch the types of comments that are said during the wailing. She was especially expressive and upset and what she said was: “Fatima, tell me this is not my mama and that she is coming later. Where is my mama?” “My mama is not in heaven because heaven doesn’t exist because it wouldn’t allow this to happen to her.” She was in complete denial and upset that her mother had been taken from her. Although, while the physical signs of grief are more accentuated in Paraguay (wailing, fainting, etc.) after the final rezo on the ninth day life moves on with little acknowledgement that a person is grieving. In the states we realize that a person has lost someone they love and will continue to “check-in” and see how they are doing long after the burial.
The time between when a person dies until they are buried is a lot shorter than in the states. Mostly I think it is because Paraguayans don’t preserve the body and it is necessary to bury it before it decomposes too much. Until the burial it is said that someone must be up with body every hour and it can never be left alone. This time is called el velorio, and is probably similar to a wake. During Ña Elida’s velorio I became very aware of the customs. While even though the family is grieving, they are still expected to play host and offer refreshments to the multitudes of people that show up in their house. When a guest arrives they approach the family members and will say me pesame, or literally translated “it grieves me.” When I realized that this is what they were saying I chuckled a little to myself because at other velorios I have said lo siento mucho and in turn have received startled reactions.
A mourner will also turn their attention to the casket. When this happened I was always a little shocked at how much physical interaction there was between the mourner and the deceased as they caressed the face and held the hands of the loved ones while they wept and conversed with her. In the states I am more accustomed to maintaining distance between the deceased and the mourner. I think the best way to explain this difference is in what an aunt said to Ña Elida’s children the morning before she was buried. “Wake up. These are the last moments you will be able to spend with your mom.” They are saying the most final goodbye that they will ever say to her.
I interacted with many people at the velorio and the discussions I had with them all carried similar themes. The first were people sharing what they were doing when they heard that Ña Elida had died and how they were involved in the events leading up to her death. The second was people sharing how they knew Ña Elida. “She always came to visit me and drank térere. ‘Hola mi socia,’ she would say to me. She would always bring me things from her house.” Very rarely did I hear what I would call an obituary. They didn’t share about what kind of a person she was, her worldly accomplishments etc. In mourning rituals in the states we spend time celebrating the life of the deceased, while in Paraguay it is much more about saying goodbyes and grieving the loss.
As a foreigner I stood and watched these rituals, and partook in a few, and felt a little out of place, as I am accustomed to feeling. I didn’t weep over the casket or wipe my hand across the face of Ña Elida. Of course her death greatly affected me. I spent those 48 hours in shock and tried to be as helpful as I could when the family was so obviously a wreck. I shared stories of Ña Elida along with everyone else. She always called me her muñeca and her princesa and I would always ask for her bendición. I was at a birthday asado when I first heard that she had her attack, and then an hour later we found out that she died. The next morning I woke before the sun rose and went to her house to be with the family. Although I watched people around me grieving and I too felt their grief, I was not able to personally mourn the death of Ña Elida until they were laying down the bricks to close her into the panteón and I shed silent tears. And of course I continue to mourn her loss when I am with her family, pass by her house, visit with her social, or catch her face in a picture. She left behind 15 children and 11 grandchildren who deeply love her. She will be missed.

Thursday, July 5, 2012

6 months is too long to go without blogging

A recent update e-mailed to friends and family in the states. Blogging has not been a strong point.

Dear Family and Friends,

A couple of weeks ago I turned 25 and I received several birthday wishes from friends and family where you all asked how I am doing. I started to realize that I have fallen behind on writing regular updates (I think it has been 6 months since I last wrote, and I thought that I ought to write one. So for those of you who sent birthday greetings, I apologize for the informality of a mass e-mail, but please know how much I appreciated the thoughtfulness.

So where have I been, where am I now, and where am I going? Summers in Paraguay are hot! Almost miserable, and this summer there was a drought. From around Christmas until the end of February it didn’t rain. This affected the crops and the pace of life, since there was no work. It was a slow summer and I spent it building fogones (a  cookstove and oven made of bricks for cooking with wood) with a nearby volunteer in her community, encouraged the women to plant crops for homemade chicken feed (the drought made this difficult), had a summer art camp for elementary students, and  picked cotton. I also started working with another women’s committee in a nearby community. I began working on a grant for a pig project, which recently has been set aside due to lack of funds from the NGO and my own perception that the women were not very invested in the project. I was very excited about the possibility of the project which would have included the installation of biodigesters, an alternative technology to animal waste and the creation of fuel, and was a little disappointed to not continue with it, but also relieved because I felt like already in the grant writing process I was carrying most of the work, and knew that this is how the complete project cycle would begin to look like. These women recently were able to put in a request to the local government for pigs.  I am hoping to be able to follow this up with sharing information with them about proper pig raising techniques as well as encourage them to plant and make their own pig feed.
Making Masks at Art Camp




At the end of February I made a significant decision about my living situation. As the relationship changed with the family where I had constructed my house and as I felt a need for more privacy and independence, I decided it was time for me to look for other housing opportunities. The reason that I chose to build my house in the first place was because of lack of housing, so I felt very stuck. I explored some mediocre options that fell through, and then a very ideal situation opened up near the end of March, and I moved in the first week of April. I am very happy that I made this decision. I am overall happier and more comfortable and it has impacted my relationships in the community for the best. I finally started my own garden, which has been a lot of fun to work in and experiment with. I just transplanted my tomatoes this morning!
My new house, a "typical" Paraguayan house, very old, but well taken care of.

I rent the room on the left. 

I am enjoying having more space!



Home Sweet Home!
 School started in February, which was a welcome to the slow summer, I started working in the garden with the students, teaching about composting and proper seed bed preparation. Shortly after I started my work with them, the school received funds for the 7th, 8th, and 9thgraders to attend a special agriculture class in the afternoons. I now attend this class with them 1-2 times weekly and assist the teacher in the garden. The students learn aviculture, horticulture, natural resource management, rural administration, and rural engineering. They are also required to have a garden in their homes and the school. I have enjoyed this class and with the teacher and another volunteer we are exploring how to overlap our objectives.
Making seed beds!

At the end of May my host grandma passed away suddenly. She was a very dear woman who always called me her ‘princess’ or her ‘doll’ when I saw her. She left 14 living children. It was a very hard time for my host family as well as for me. I also learned and observed the differences between the Paraguayan death and grieving culture, and the one that I have known. I am working on a blog post to share what I learned. http://Maddieinparaguay.blogspot.com

I continue to follow up on the chicken project. Checking in to see if the chickens have started laying, what kind of food the chickens are eating and giving tips where I can. My chickens started laying the end of April! I now find 4 eggs in the nest every day. I have eggs coming out of my ears…and the women have plenty more than I do! There is a very distinct difference between the women who feed their chickens a complete protein diet, to those who feed a carbohydrate heavy diet. There are still chickens who have not yet laid and I am encouraging them to make more homemade chicken feed, which has a complete nutritional diet.
Making homemade chicken feed!


I have been talking to the women about proper nutrition for themselves and their families. I hope to follow this up with cooking classes. We received garden seeds from the local government and hope to also receive additional garden implements in the upcoming months. We are also working on planting trees throughout the community for reforestation. Yesterday a national organization, Refopar, brought 5 trees per woman and talked about the importance of the environment.
My puppy, Jasy, is no longer a puppy, she is about 20Kilos and likes to bark at everyone that passes, leaving them completely afraid of her, but she is the sweetest thing. She makes for a great companion and keeps my life exciting, especially as she chases Ara, my cat, through the house, or barks at the baby cows and tries to catch chickens. (She actually caught and bit my rooster so hard that I had to put him down.)
My time in Paraguayan is flying by so quickly. I only have five and half months until I complete the 2 year commitment. While a part of me would love to stay longer, I feel as if in 5 months my work will be complete, so at this moment my plans are to return to the states to celebrate Christmas with my family and new nephew (by then he will be over a year old!) for the first time in 2 years!
I thank you again for all your prayers, encouragement, and communication.